In 1999, she joined the Business Planning and Development division of the Prada group, and later became Operations Manager for Helmut Lang. organisation Having crossed the $1 billion in sales threshold in 2017, the brand isa star performer in parent companyKerings luxury portfolio. It was pissing me off a little bit, she said. In early 2016, Slimane shocked the fashion world by announcing his decision to leave Saint Laurent, in spite of the success and influence he enjoyed in his role. ", The priority is to make sure the leather I use is sourced correctly. Bellettini also shared how she still does not speak French. Please see our privacy policy for more information. All rights reserved. Another question asked whether it was difficult for Bellettini to take a job in Paris, for a Parisian brand, when not speaking French herself. Facebook gives people. As a luxury brand, you secure the best part of the leather. In 1977, following the meeting with her husband Bertelli who is still her right-hand today, Miuccia quickly revolutionized the concept of Haute Couture, introducing the concept of sportiness in a world that previously looked at it as a parallel universe. Smaller categories such as silk, jewellery and eyewear are also booming, contributing to growth. 2023 Fortune Media IP Limited. In the luxury group's2018 full-year results, Saint Laurent reached sales1.74 billion, a 16.1 percent increase in reported growth. By Roza Kovak. of Yves Saint Laurent. An Italian woman who had never run a company, lived in Paris or learned the unwritten codes of French society, she was considered a strange choice to become chief executive of Yves Saint Laurent, the ultimate French brand, in 2013. She has been the chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent since 2013. The established fashion executive spent years at the helm of several Kering brands before being tapped to lead Saint Laurent. What was missing from Saint Laurent in 2012 was not the business or the foundation, but the fashion authority and the clarity of the brand. Although the virtual platform did not allow us to see the audience members, you could tell by Rosenkranz and Siegals faces that they were thoroughly moved by Bellettinis words. Ms. Bellettini said that she received a stream of hate emails, including one calling her a whore. Hear the latest economic, business and market news, as well as global, national, and local news. Some mourned the YSL moniker, while others embraced the freshness of the new name and new look. Comedienne Amy Schumer makes the cover of Vanity Fair, Trump supporters sell 'Trump That Bitch' t-shirts depicting Hillary Clinton as the businessman candidatestruggles to attract female voters, Women will grace 5 pound and 10 pound notes in Scotland, Howa woman rose to senior product manager from customer support at Etsy, Fire departments in the U.S. turn to women volunteers, Designer Christine Kendall sues Alexander McQueen over Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress, actress Helen Mirren, reflecting on a lack of roles for women in movies. Francesca Bellettini is also on the board of Technogym SpA, Yves Saint Laurent UK Ltd. and Ferrari NV. She doesnt use mascara or foundation. It became modern and sleek, with an homage to the brands history, while elevating it from the image Yves Saint Laurent called to mind at the time it made everyone have an opinion. The companys enviable performance can, in large extent, be attributed to a drastic and unexpected rebranding. In his place, Bellettini appointed Anthony Vaccarello, a young designer who had previously been successful at Versus Versace. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. Indeed, this focus on gender parity has been a key element of the brand since the very start, with Saint Laurent himself believing men and women should wear the same clothes. Her extensive managerial experience in the fashion industry precedes her time at Bottega Veneta;she previously was a merchandising director at Gucci, operations manager at Helmut Lang, and has also held various positions at Prada. She allots 90 minutes every Monday morning for a lesson with a French tutor and sometimes stays up to midnight studying grammar. Bellettini noted how, guided by YSLs commitment to its team, they managed to not fire anyone during the COVID-19 pandemic. So maybe it makes sense that in this new mothership, the result of three years of work, he prefers a hidden space over all else. Well, it turned out they didnt know much. She joined Kering in 2003 as Strategic Planning Director and Associate Worldwide Merchandising Director of Gucci. Ending with a hopefulness to participate the next time Brown University Fashion Week takes place in person, Bellettini left us in awe. Francesca Bellettini joined Kering in 2013. When asked about how the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted YSL, Bellettini mentioned on a personal level she feels her team is working around the clock, yet are lacking the energy of social interaction due to various restrictions including a 6PM curfew. Bellettini says: Anthony always created a very compelling and complete collection and the show in March 2020, featuring colored tailoring jackets and latex pants, gave visibility to its offer variety. Her husband, a businessman who has been in her life for 20 years, lives in Milan. Indeed, Bellettini believes having a permanent collection is vital in ensuring brand awareness and recruiting customers, particularly given around 70 percent of customers each year are new. PARIS Francesca Bellettini doesnt style her hair. Yet, what was most eye-opening was when Bellettini explained that, in fact, we must focus on choosing a job that suits us the most; we must focus on finding work that ignites a spark. The people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the editors of The Business of Fashion, based on nominations and on-the-ground intelligence from around the world. Con Romy Schneider, Donald Houston, Dennis Waterman, Patricia Brake. Anthony Vaccarello has nearly finished giving a tour of the just-opened 140,000-square-foot headquarters of fashion house Yves Saint Laurent in a tony corner of Pariss seventh arrondissement when, heading toward the exit, he says hes saved his favorite part for last. Sometimes if you look at one part, you lose the full picture, she says. The chef worked in kitchens for over 20 years before buying The French Laundryand has a secret hack for ordering In-N-Out fries. Specifically, by handing greater autonomy and authority to local market chiefs, the brand has been able to connect far better with audiences in each region. Miller, who was born in Guyana, says,"I believe that level of abuse means I am doing something right for investors.". Whilst at the Italian leather goods and ready-to-wear brand, also owned by Kering, Bellettini oversaw merchandising, visual display and communications and was instrumental in the brands repositioning and popularity in emerging markets. Con Laetitia Casta, Mathieu Amalric, Pierre Arditi, Nomie Lvovsky. One featured a model in a fur jacket and fishnet tights reclining with her legs spread wide open; the other, a model in a leotard and roller-skate stilettos bending over a stool. In his place, Bellettini appointed Anthony Vaccarello, a young designer who had previously been successful at Versus Versace. You need to be careful of not entering into this stress and anxiety of having to change and having to do everything new, every season, because half of the people havent even had the time to look at it and to experience it. personalising content and ads, providing social media features and to When I met him, I was incredibly impressed that he was not at all afraid of the challenge. Join Facebook to connect with Francesca Bellettini and others you may know. All rights reserved. We knew that this was a super-healthy girl who had been working with us forever and we didnt see anything bad, Ms. Bellettini said. Customer Service. Russia's war on Ukraine latest: Putin casts war as battle for nation's survival, India FM Jaishankar says Soros dangerous, debate needed on democracy, Buffett's Berkshire profit falls on investments, currencies, Bill Gates buys Heineken stake, despite saying he's 'not a big beer drinker', Elon Musk recruits team to develop OpenAI rival - The Information, Hedge fund manager Chris Hohn demands Airbus drop Atos deal - letter, Elon Musk's challenge: Stay ahead of the competition, ISS urges Apple shareholders to vote for CEO Tim Cook, other execs' pay packages, Elon Musk accuses media of racism after newspapers drop 'Dilbert' cartoon, French media billionaire Niel fails with bid for TNT television frequence - Arcom. Eileen Fisher is trying to raise the bar for sustainable fashion. Life & Arts Saint Laurent CEO Francesca Bellettini on the making of a $1bn brand At the FT's Business of Luxury conference in San Francisco this week, the head of the French house with 26 per. The luxury house is known for its formalwear and sharp tailoring. Francesca Bellettini was appointed president andchief executiveof Saint Laurent in July 2013. At a time when fashion is all about body positivity, Saint Laurent put thin models on the catwalk of its recent show. FRANCESCA BELLETTINI. We communicate the brand, and Anthony does it in a way thats very relevant, she says. Why? Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy | CA Notice at Collection and Privacy Notice| Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information| Ad Choices The looks Anthony does for the shows are incredibly complete jewellery, shoes, etc. After an internal study of YSL, Ms. Bellettini concluded that the company either had to invest substantially and spark growth or begin dismantling operations and shrink to half its size. But there is only one problem, it is half the salary. He told me, In my life I never earned the money you are going to make at Prada. The oldest executive at Kering SA is Baudouin Prot, 69, who is the Director. Previously, she worked in Compass Partners International, UK from 1998 to 1999, in Deutsche Morgan Grenfell, UK from 1996 to 1998 and in Goldman Sachs . Many observers credit Slimane for Saint Laurents recent success. Leather in particular is a material the brand is paying attention to, in terms of avoiding waste. It helps that were open, that we tend to smile, that we have this funny accent, she said, smiling. Standard Digital includes access to a wealth of global news, analysis and expert opinion. Bellettini notes that tourists and local customers shop differently: tourists are in search of a better price but know what product they want, while locals are more selective. Ready-to-wear, however, is growing faster at the moment, Bellettini notes, but she adds that the breakdown per category is not meaningful. Renaming a world-famous brand is never advisable. Sign up to our newsletter for a truly global perspective on the fashion industry. Bellettini has overseen a radical rebranding, overhauling the company from within Image: Nico. Markdowns are now limited to controlled environments meaning few private sales dedicated to selected clients and outlets, which she calls a legitimate channel with very small overlap of clientele with stores. Not everybody understood, because we are not very talkative; the more you explain, the less sexy a concept becomes. The change to Saint Laurent also reflected a decisive shift towards modernity, helping the brand reach young people who do not share the same connection to the original name as older generations. It wasnt her first time in the line of fire, in any case. Francesca Bellettini began her career in London as an investment banker, working at Goldman Sachs International, Deutsche Morgan Grenfell and Compass Partners International. California Weighs $360,000 in Reparations to Eligible Black Residents. But I dont have to do something to please someone or some client.. YSL continues to grow that number. She worked at Prada and Helmut Lang prior to. What did they know? Nevertheless, Bellettinis success was not easy to achieve. Plan A was to study Business Administration at Bocconi University and follow her dream of running a company. Francesca Bellettini is 50, she's been the President and Chief Executive Officer of Yves Saint Laurent and Member of the Executive Committee of Kering SA since 2015. Over the last few years, this has hit high-end brands hard.
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